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When gin is barely gin
CI’s drinks expert Marcin Miller finds out what makes a good gin – and what makes gin, gin…
The following words have appeared before in this column; ‘the world of spirits has never been so dynamic’. The category which illustrates this more than any other is gin, which means London Dry Gin or, at a push, Distilled Gin. A noteworthy anomaly is Plymouth Gin; made like London Gin it can only be distilled within the city walls of Plymouth. If you have ambitions for your establishment, anything merely labelled Gin should not be considered fit for your clientele; it is often made from a cheaper base spirit and the flavours (which can be artificial) are often cold compounded, which means simply stirred into the spirit.
London Dry Gin is not a regional classification but a stylistic one; it must be made in a traditional still (usually a copper pot still) by re-distilling spirit with natural flavourings. In gin these are known as botanicals, a term which encompasses berries, fruits, seeds and peel. Crucially, from the perspective of flavour, no flavourings can be added after distillation.
London Dry Gin is all about big, bold flavours and tradition; the taste profile is usually driven by juniper and then citrus. Some of the newer gins experiment with more exotic and unusual botanicals, including tea and fresh fruit. This is fine as long as juniper is prevalent; after all, the word ‘gin’ comes from ‘genever’, the Dutch for juniper berries.
This leads us to Distilled Gin which, like its cockney cousin, must also be made in a traditional still with spirit redistilled with the botanicals. The key difference here is that flavour can be added after distillation. Thus various gins use cucumber infusions and distillates, rose, saffron and so thus. Distilled gins have greater freedom in terms of botanicals and appeal to experimental barmen.
When juniper is absent or takes a back seat – which is becoming more common with some of the new gins – then I think it leads to consumer confusion and actually detracts from the category. I appreciate that consumers are broadening their horizons in what they drink, a reflection of increased interest in quality and provenance of food, and that people making drinks are attracted by the new and unusual but when a gin is released that looks and tastes of blackberries without a hint of juniper then why call it a gin?
Presumably, because the category is exciting, gin is the bandwagon du jour. If barmen the world over weren’t bored by another ill-used category, then perhaps some of these flavoured abominations would simply be called vodka…
How best to negotiate your way around the new gins? First, use the terms described above as a guide to style. Secondly, and most unusually, price helps; if it carries a premium price tag and the words ‘distilled from 100% grain spirit’, then chances are it is made with care and attention. Thirdly, and also unusually, use strength as a guide; some of the more complex and aromatic notes show best at higher strength.
