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Blends are back
CI’s drinks expert Marcin Miller explains why a blended whisky is by no means a bad thing
Despite the sustained growth in sales of single malts, blends still represent over 90% of the Scotch whisky industry. For many years blends were ignored by whisky experts and connoisseurs. Why? Because, generally, people are snobs. If the first whisky you ever drank was a Dewar’s or a Bell’s, as you grew older, richer and more sophisticated you demonstrated your change in status in your choice of car, watch and, yes, drink.
It is also a cultural phenomenon; young adults seldom drink what their parents enjoyed. That is why the UK is the one market where blends are not appreciated. Similarly, young middle class Russians do not routinely choose vodka. Those Spaniards who can still afford to go out do not turn to Brandy de Jerez. They choose J&B, Cutty Sark, imported rum and London dry gin… The French drink more Scotch whisky in one month than they do Cognac in a year.
Interest in blends may have increased because of the global economic downturn. It may also be due to the success of TV series such as Mad Men which are set in an era that predates the success of single malt, in a testosterone-driven world fuelled by Cutty Sark. Or perhaps it is merely cyclical and it is time for the blends to have their moment in the sun. According to leading whisky commentator, Dave Broom; “Blends are versatile and complex; they fit any mood and any occasion perfectly. Blends are made to enjoy in any way you want; they are less restrictive than single malts but equally complex.”
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing so it has become an unquestionable truth that blended whisky is inferior to single malt whisky. It is time to challenge that way of thinking.
Of course, the revolution has already started. Johnnie Walker, by far the best-selling Scotch in the world, realised a long time ago that an ascending ladder of quality and price could offer a lifetime of security and status; the brand loyal can move from Red to Black to Green to Gold to Blue and, now, beyond. I bow to no-one in my respect for Johnnie Walker. Without the success of Johnnie Walker, whisky enthusiasts wouldn’t be able to buy Lagavulin or many other Diageo single malts. Further, without big blends investing in new markets, the whisky category wouldn’t be able to enjoy growth. However, in an increasingly competitive world, bar managers have to have a point of difference. Use your list as an opportunity to educate your customers with new or less predictable whiskies.
Cutty Sark, launched in 1923 and the best-selling Scotch in the USA in the 1960s, has been under new ownership for nearly 18 months. It is the original, easy-drinking blended Scotch, made for mixing and has been attractively repackaged; there is talk of exciting plans for new expressions to be launched. This is definitely one to watch. Compass Box, consistently labelled as ‘innovative’, has just launched Great King Street; it appears radical but, surely, is not very different to the original ethos of Cutty Sark. It is of very high quality, with almost 50% single malt content, and makes a really good highball.
Blends are made to be drunk long, unlike single malts. Whereas single malts are made for savouring rather than for sessions, blends are generally lighter, more uplifting and can be enjoyed all evening and into the early hours. Perfect for a night at the casino…
